Guadix is a small city on the road between Tabernas (Fort Bravo) and Córdoba. Our
interest in it was as the nearest place where we probably find a hotel when we found
the only one in Tabernas to be full. We read about it in the guidebook and headed
out of town. As we left town and headed towards the highway (which bypassed the
town) we found a run-down hotel with an elderly lady running it, and it had a room
(it was empty) and had secure parking for the bike. Without our need for a room
we would have ignored Guadix and missed an interesting attraction (and some really
unique pottery). This city has an entire district of underground houses and a museum
We entered Guadix through another road construction project and ate more dust. We
soon found the directional signs to the Troglodyte district and the museum. We were
there at 10:30 and it was supposed to open at 10, but it didn't until 11:00. Meanwhile
we prowled through the souvenir shop while the proprietress set up the outside displays. There
was a large assortment of plates and bowls with really interesting designs painted
on them and then fired.
There were also some delicate, unglazed jugs that would never have made it home in
one piece. But the really interesting thing was the way the houses were cut out
of the soft rock.
The rooms had been hacked out of the hillside with an adze or similar tool, the marks
were still visible under the whitewashed walls and ceiling. The rooms were small,
I thought surprisingly so when all it took was some more digging and the room would
not be so crowded. The kitchen at left, with its hearth and chimney was about 6'
by 8' and 7' high in the center. The bedrooms just barely held the bed with room
to scoot down one side. The doorway less than 5' high.
There was a large district that was all these Troglodyte houses with streets that
wound around through the hillocks and knobs. You could see chimneys everywhere even
when you couldn't see a house. Some of the houses were very nice, particularly those
near the museum. Though as one went deep into the district you discovered that some
of the houses were just mud doorways and a chimney.
As part of the museum display their was a couple of manikins dressed in traditional
This only took a couple of hours and we were on the road to Córd6ba arriving in plenty
of time to find our chosen hostel full, and the youth hostel was full too.